Thursday, April 18, 2013

Rock Junction - 2012 -- Calamity Mesa Loop


Rock Junction - 2012
Day 2 - May 31
Calamity Mesa Loop

By Jerry Smith

Back in November of 2008 the Grand Mesa Jeep Club of Grand Junction, CO, and some of the Western Slope 4-Wheelers of Montrose, CO, officially reopened the Calamity Mesa Loop after Mother Nature had closed this very little known trail for several years. (possibly over 25-years closed)  During those "off years", much damage had been done to the trail.


** This is the "beginning and the end" of the Calamity Mesa Loop 

Even after 3.5 years, the total number of known rigs to have completed this gem of a trail is only about two-dozen.  Some have had the pleasure multiple times, but very few even know of it.  Nearly all of them have been Rock Junction participants.


This Pinon Pine stump is evidence of how long the Calamity Mesa Loop was closed.  The stump is in the middle of the road and before being cut, there was no way to go around it.

Rock Junction is an annual event held in conjunction with the Rocky Mountain Off Road Expo in Grand Junction, CO.  The Expo is the first Saturday of June,

Rock Junction is the preceding 3-days.  Guided Jeep trails for all levels of Jeeping experience and ability are offered.  We have mild and scenic trails for the beginners, medium level trails that will challenge your driving and your rig's capability, and then there are trails for the buggy crowd. On those, you take your own chances.

After a fantastic day of trail riding, what could be better than a BBQ dinner and a chance to relive your day with others who have just returned from theirs?  Rock Junction draws Jeepers from all over the country.  The event's reputation is one of everyone having a superior time on some little known, but wonderful trails.


The Calamity Mesa Loop is about a 20-mile loop around the perimeter of Calamity Mesa.  Depending on your point of view, it is either 20-miles of really bad or really good road.  

Obstacles with names like; Gate Keeper Wash;  The Narrows; Gyration  Wash;  Twisted Drop;  Mike's Rock;  Articulation Station;  Hog Back;  Drop-Off Corner;  Overnight Wash;  Tippy Rock; and The Squeeze will keep you entertained in a deluxe fashion.  Full-size vehicles are not welcome because of some super tight places they will not fit.

Most drivers appreciate a good spotter on many, if not most, of the 11-named obstacles.  Correct "line" choice can be a must.  Even non-named obstacles deserve your respect.

There are plenty of large rocks, rocky waterfalls. and twisty washes to keep you entertained.  Some of the views on a clear day will pull your eyes out on your cheeks.

This day was a particularly outstanding treat for me.  Del Albright from the BlueRibbon Coalition was along for the ride.  Meeting him had been a goal of mine for a long time and treating him to a premier Colorado trail was only a cherry on top.  

We also had the honor of having Ed and Janice Helmick along for the ride. This year, 2012, is the 50th Anniversary of the Grand Mesa Jeep Club.  Ed is one of the original members so he has "some" experience on the trails of Colorado and other places.  Ed has written and sells a book of Jeep trivia that I highly recommend.  You can find information at  http://www.ayjbooks.com/about.html 


** Ed Helmick on Calamity Mesa Loop



 ** "Gatekeeper Wash" stops most people from taking the Calamity Mesa Loop road.

Bob Levenhagen of T&T Customs from Cheyenne, WY (Title  Sponsor of the Grand Mesa Jeep Club’s annual “Off Road Show”) http://www.tntcustoms.com  was also along for the trip.

Unfortunately, the 15% average eight-mile grade ascending the "Niche Road" to the mid-level top of the Uncompahgre Plateau was too much for the new stroker engine in Bob's Cherokee.  Just getting to the top required 4-lengthy "cool-down" stops so he abandoned the Cherokee at the top to ride/drive Del's "Land Use War Machine".

On the "Niche Road," we met the Mesa County grader maintaining the road near the bottom.  That was good in the fact that the road was freshly graded and bad in that the dust was horrendous.  Stirring the loose, sandy road base has a tendency to release the extremely fine silt-like material that hangs forever if no crosswind is present.
  
After passing the big yellow 4x8 foot “uranium mining warning sign”, we regrouped at the old New Verde uranium mine, we aired down and slipped into 4wd and proceeded down the road with much less dust to contend with.  After about a mile of fairly easy going we reached "Gate Keeper Wash".

This first obstacle turns most that venture this way back the way they came from.  Even most ATVs seem to balk.  Seldom do you find fresh tracks down the road from here on. 
As is my practice as a trip leader, I "rushed" through "Gate Keeper Wash" and "The Narrows" to walk back and shoot pictures of the others as they negotiated their way down the "Gate Keeper Wash" and directly onto "The Narrows".

**  Notice the crown in the road.  You must be cognizant of high centering while not going too far left or right where other bad things can happen. **

Gate Keep Wash requires you drive down the wash next to what's left of the former road.  Large rocks in the wash give you some good challenges for about 50 yards before you must sneak your way back up onto the road surface.  The "sneaking" causes a severe tipping before you right again.  This is just the first of your seat covers stretching experiences to come.

Greetings!  Now you must negotiate "The Narrows". 

"The Narrows" is a continuation of “Gate Keep Wash” going down the right side of the road.  Most of the right side of the road has long since disappeared into a deep cut that if you fall into it, you'll be laid on your side and in a very bad way.

 Bentonite is "bad news" when wet.


"The Narrows" is along a Bentonite hillside with a shelf road cut into it.  Bentonite is an extremely fine blue/gray colored material that when even slightly wet will clog tire treads and allow you to slide clear to the next county.  Bentonite is common here in western Colorado and Southern Utah and we avoid it when wet.  It can cause trouble even when dry.


What's left of the road surface has crowned severely to the point that high ground clearance is mandatory.  Large rocks in the road cause you to steer near the edge of the ditch and dangerously close to high-centering as you creep along.  


A narrow track vehicle is definitely a plus.  Wide track vehicles without very large tires won't make it here.  Long divots from dragging differentials are common.  Occasionally, either a strap or winch cable is needed to complete "The Narrows".


The next few miles are mild in comparison.  There are rocky hills and some great scenery so you can stay awake.  But suddenly you find yourself in another wash... "Gyration Wash" to be exact.

 "Gyration Wash" gets a little flex even with 37" tires.

This obstacle begins with you entering the middle of the wash that cuts diagonally across the road.  This is where my rear sway bar was twisted to the point of breaking on two earlier trips.  (A sway bar breaking under load is a heart-stopping sound by the way).  It's eroded enough now that the angles have lessened, but your suspension will get a workout just getting to the real obstacle. 

Next, a rocky "waterfall" drops you down to another level while working your driving skills and articulation.  This is another challenge you won't sleep through.  We love this trail!

Whenever possible on this trip, we try to have lunch on the overlook of the Blue Creek Gorge.  From there you look down on a bench about 400 vertical feet straight down that runs away from the cliff bottom to the rim of the Blue Creek Gorge.  

Confluence of Blue Cr. with the Delores River

Near the confluence with the Delores River, Blue Creek is nearly 600 feet straight down from that rim.  The gorge is narrow and winding and the view from above is just spectacular on a clear day.

The Blue Creek gorge is nearly vertical on both sides and winds its way to the Delores River in a dark narrow canyon.  Rising up across the Delores River canyon is Sewemup Mesa... a Wilderness Study Area that will likely become designated one day. 

This is one WSA that truly deserves that designation.  The name "Sewemup" comes from the cattle rustlers who used Sinbad Valley to hold stolen cattle.  There they would surgically remove the brands and "Sew-em-up" the wound before re-branding them.  (Anyone in need of a tattoo removal?)

Most years the La Sal mountaintops jutting out above Sewemup Mesa are white with snow in May and June.  This year they had already lost the majority of that luster.  It makes a wonderful picture but your eyes see it even better.  It's a view you won't soon forget.

Leaving the lunch spot, you begin a steep, narrow, verrry rocky climb up to another level on the west side of Calamity Mesa.  The rocks here vary from sand to larger than Jeep size and a wash coming down the trail has you off-camber a good bit of the way.  


 Leaving the "Lunch Overlook"

Though not named (yet), this portion of the trail can have you thinking about reversing course about the time it breaks out onto some lesser extreme country.

This "lesser extreme country" includes some narrow, rocky trail with an "unobstructed" view on the lower side (a shelf road view).  The steep hillside is a mass of rocks, brush, and Junipers barely hanging onto the mesa side.  Gravity pulls one of the rocks down every once in a while.  People squeamish about heights will "squeam" along here in places.  (Quite a few have elected to walk).  Hanging over the edge of the road while severely off-camber makes for a superb viewing opportunity.


You get some very good views along here!

Heading toward the outside of the western rim of Calamity Mesa we come to "Twisted Drop".  "Twisted Drop" is one of those obstacles you get out and look at before proceeding.  To do otherwise could become a major mistake.

"Twisted Drop" falls from sight over your hood.  As you approach the obstacle, the roadway disappears from sight and you wonder if the trail just ended.  You have to do it blindly or follow directions of a spotter.  



Twisted Drop will wind you up!

A large boulder on the right cuts the view that direction and the drop has several large rock formations protruding from the road surface that will twist your suspension to the maximum in every conceivable way before you reach the bottom.  Even very flexible suspensions get a real work out here.

The next little way is more scenic than rugged.  That's not to say "easy" though.  People with height sensitivities often complain about the proximity of the narrow road to the edge of a steep hillside.  Throw in a few well-placed rocks that push you toward the edge and those words are voiced in fear.  We ask you to not go over the side, but some people are skittish just the same. 

"Mike's Rock" is the next named obstacle.  Driving up to it you don't have much concern.  That's how it became "Mike's Rock".  Mike wasn't concerned... not the first time nor the second time.


 Mike "touching rock"

I generally let new people learn this by watching until they make the mistake and then stop them when they can look out the driver's window and see it right before their nose, literally.

"Mike's Rock" is a large boulder on the outside edge of the road.  The road is flat between the rock and some smaller rocks that jut out from under a bush on the right.  As you evade the bush on the right, your right tire climbs the smaller rocks and the top and fenders of your rig tilt dramatically into the big rock.  It becomes a geometric equation to get through without leaving new scars on the rock (or your rig).  Just ask Mike.

Several times at Mike's rock we have seen bear tracks on the road.  This is wild country and you always want to be on guard.


 Look close next to the hat... that is a bear track.

After more lulling, we come to "Articulation Station" and "Hog Back".
  
"Articulation Station" is a wash that cuts diagonally across the road.  You must dive off the road into a hole where you need to straighten up as you enter causing some tipping issues.


 Happy Trails on "Articulation Station"




Front view of Happy Trails on "Articulation Station"

As you straighten out, a steep rock is directly in front that requires the right line and often lockers to pull you up.  Once you're up and over the rocks, you begin a 30-yard run on the "Hog Back". 

High centering is common on "Hog Back".  On the "pre-run", I listened to Chuck's “spotting” directions and was left "turtled" on one of the rocks.  Getting out to assess the situation I could literally rock Happy Trails like a baby with little effort.  (good help is hard to find).


 "Hog Back" can "turtle" you easily.

Just a stone's throw around a short "S" curve you now come to "Drop-off Turn".  Here the long wheelbase guys have bad sound effects.

The sharp corner drops off... which on its own would be no problem.  A significant rock on the left is there to break the bead on your rear tire or cut the sidewall while a large rock on the right has a vertical drop that a 37" tire can't absorb.  The result is a sickening "thud" as your axle tube settles firmly on the rock and then scrapes its way to where the tire can resume its chores.  Ghastly sound effects!


"Drop Off Corner" 

(Note)  The next year, Tony Pelligrino broke the point off of the protruding rock with his highly modified YJ, so this obstacle is no longer as vicious)

 Further up the trail is the obstacle that caused a "forced overnighter" the first time around this trail. 

"Overnight Wash" has been a problem more than once.  Just ask some of last year's participants.  We've winched and thrown significant rocks into the wash just to make it passable on several occasions.  This is the first year we've not had to stop and make repairs on our pre-run.

Looking down the nearly vertical 5 or 6-foot cut below as you hang out from the off-camber road tipping you out for the “view” is unnerving as you enter the wash on a tight left turn. 


 "Overnight Wash" can be pretty "hairy".

Several people have elected to walk through rather than ride.  Watching the driver-side rear tire come precariously close to falling into the “pit” makes you wonder… “what if?”.


 It's a long drop on "Overnight Wash"

Next is "Tippy Rock".   Here, if you have enough rocker clearance you can go up and over a large rock in the middle of the road.  No clearance?  Go around... but know that 30+ degree off-camber tilts are required to get around.  Good seat covers are required to evade the rock.


 "Tippy Rock" has two ways to go.

The final "named" obstacle is the main reason we do not allow full-size vehicles on this trail. 

"The Squeeze" is just barely wide enough to allow a JK through.  A Juniper tree on the lower roadside rim of a steep hillside and a large rock in the middle of the road make this a nail biter. 

You are just inches away from going over the edge on the driver side and even closer to having a deep gouge in your paint job on the passenger side.  We recommend a speed limit of under 25 mph here.


 The "Squeeze" is very tight on a JK

About 3-miles further along, we come to the back of the large 4'X8' yellow sign announcing your entrance into Uranium Mining Country.  From here you must retrace your trail back to the highway.

Nearly everyone who has done this trip will have one complaint... a sore face.  You grin all day long and your face will become sore.

Come join us on the Calamity Mesa Loop during the 2013 Rock Junction.  You will be back again once you know what you're in for.

We always leave you with this important point… “When you come to a fork in the road... take it!”.  That may be where the adventure is!

Many Happy Trails to you.

Copyright Happy Trails 4wd; 2012-2017, All rights reserved.

Friday, April 12, 2013

The Hole in the Rock Trail


Hole in the Rock Trail
March 21 - 23, 2009
By Jerry Smith
The "Hole In the Rock" road is a famous and historic trail in southern Utah on the south and east side of Lake Powell. The Hole In the Rock trail is about 30 miles in and the same back out for 60-miles of fantastic 4-wheeling (if you are into very rough and tough going).
Happy Trails showing some flex on the Hole In the Rock trail.


The Hole In the Rock trail is rated as a 6 (vehicle modifications and top driving skills needed) by the Red Rock 4- Wheelers of Moab. 
Most of the Hole In the Rock trail is on sandstone... either in the firm sandstone "slick-rock" form or its cousin,  very fine windblown sand.
The Hole In the Rock trail is extremely remote with zero facilities of any kind.  The closest help is the Cal Black Memorial Airport which is just up the hill from the little town and marina of Hite, UT.  Hite is near the upper most end of Lake Powell and is closed for the winter months.
Bring plenty of gasoline or expect to pay dearly for it at the airport (if you can catch them open for business).
Most of the Hole In the Rock road is so rough progress is made at a fast walking pace. You get so much "head-shake", you just won't want to proceed at a faster pace.
Happy Trails on "The Ledge"
Every few feet of the Hole In the Rock trail there is an obstacle of one kind or another. 
Some of the Hole In the Rock dug-ways are terribly rough.  Where the Mormon pioneers and later the miners blasted into the rock and then back-filled with sand to make them passable, the sand has blown out of the blasted areas and there is no way to describe how rough these frequent areas can be. 

Your vehicle will definitely get a workout absorbing the constant bumps and dips.  There are many “falls”, “steps”, and “off-camber” obstacles.  Names like “the Chute” and the “Wall” have been given to some particularly notable ones.
A minimum of two days is recommended for doing the trail, one day in and one day to get back out. Start early if you want to hike down the last 2 miles of the trail to Lake Powell.
 If you wish to do much hiking and exploring on Hole In the Rock, three days would be better. Do not attempt to do this trail alone.  A 30 mile walk along the Hole In the Rock for help through this rugged desert terrain could ruin your whole day, not to mention the possibility of your life. 
Of course you will want things like WATER, camping equipment, WATER, food, and a little more water.  We experienced March temperatures between about 29 and 50 degrees on Hole In the Rock, so a good warm sleeping bag comes in mighty handy as well. 
This is Mike in "The Chute"

 Our simple meals, primarily a can of soup and sand--- (no “wich”) were heated under the hood prior to setting the “table”.  Sand, dust and wind were ever present this whole trip.  No doubt our equipment will have sand forever.  I'm sure my eyes and ears will.

Having met in Moab, four Grand Mesa Jeep Club members had their sights set on the Hole In the Rock trail.  This would be my first look at  Hole In the Rock. 
 The Hole In the Rock trail has a serious reputation of being only for the most serious Jeeper.  You'll need plenty of stamina just to complete it.
Leaving Moab, we hit the road for the Cal Black Memorial Airport for a last fuel fill-up before looking for a campsite and a short drive toward the Hole In the Rock road.
Signs are few and kinda crude.
The Hole In the Rock road had been reported washed out in Lake Canyon so we left to look it over.  The report was correct.
Approximately 75 yards of the road surface had dropped into the deep canyon and left a deep “V”-wedge in the remaining east end of the Hole In the Rock road that makes the risk/reward equation too questionable to try going around.  A mishap here would leave you at the bottom of a deep, sandy cliff.
 We scouted for a by-pass as this way would save about 10-miles of bad road off the trip.  It was a nice hike, but that’s all.  Back to camp for the night.
Mike climbing a "dug-way"
Sunday morning saw 4-Jeeps heading out for the new beginning of the Hole In the Rock Road. 
We found that the Moab Red Rock 4-Wheelers had clearly marked a way from the end of the existing road down a mostly slick-rock trail to where the old Hole In the Rock road with the washout intersected.  This part of the trail was worth the drive from Grand Junction alone. 
Some great views of Lake Powell of in the distance are a welcoming site.  The blue water contrasts with the red slick-rock to make for a great picture... except for all the dust in the air.
At this intersection, Dave and Harley left to do their own 4-wheeling and Mike and Jerry set out for the Hole In the Rock Crossing of what then was the Colorado River. 
Running the Hole In the Rock road from this end is actually going in reverse of what the Mormons, who pioneered the road during the winter of 1879- 80, did it.
As winter approached at the end of November 1879, 250 men, women, and children, with 80 wagons and 1,000 head of cattle, found themselves up against terribly broken, seemingly impassable terrain. 
The settlers had been en route on the Hole In the Rock trail for more than two weeks when they reached the 1,200-foot-deep Colorado River gorge, sixty-five miles southeast of Escalante.  (Happy Trails and I would have turned around)
For six weeks, the men labored on a wagon road down the sandstone cliffs to the Colorado River. Built by chiseling and blasting a path through a steep crevice, later named the "Hole-in-the-Rock", their road stands today as a testament of pioneer ingenuity and sheer determination.
A small section of the "New Road"
To avoid the steep grades near the bottom, the pioneers tacked their "road" onto the face of the north wall of the crevice. The tacked-on road was supported by oak stakes secured into holes drilled into the crevice wall at two-foot intervals.  (I wonder where they got the oak)
After driving the wagons through the Hole-in-the-Rock and ferrying across the 300-foot-wide Colorado river, they proceeded east out of the river gorge pioneering the  Hole In the Rock road.
On April 6th, 1880, after another ten weeks of grueling labor on the Hole In the Rock road in harsh winter conditions, the missionaries reached a sandy bottomland along the banks of the San Juan River where they established Bluff City.
The miles of road built after descending the Hole-in-the-Rock crosses some of the most rugged, remote terrain in North America. Deep ravines and washes, trails blasted down thousand-foot drop-offs, deserts traversed, paths through thick cedar forests cut, and steep cliffs ascended.
Many Hole In the Rock grades required seven spans of horses to pull the heavily laden wagons along the Hole In the Rock trail.
In all, the trek took six months. Food supplies were depleted, and teams of horses had been worn to the point of exhaustion. Two babies were born on the Hole In the Rock road and miraculously no one had died.
After Halls Crossing was established, the Hole In the Rock road was abandoned.
After several hours of lumbering along the Hole In the Rock road, we climbed up on to Grey Mesa where the Hole In the Rock road seems to have been well maintained... even though you know no equipment has touched it for who knows how long (if ever).  Some stretches of Grey Mesa e were taken at the breakneck speed of 30 mph.
Sign at the bottom of Grey Mesa
Because fuel and time were on our side, we elected to try the Rincon side-road off the Hole In the Rock road.  
As we dropped down into the canyon, the road has apparently disappeared from landslides near the lake as we could not reach the water, so we turned back to the main road.
A while later we arrived at the end of the Hole In the Rock road and took pictures of the trail taken by the wagons and some of the still existing rope cuts in the rock where they winched the wagons up steep hills. 
As the cold wind was whipping a light rain through your coat, we did not stay long.  A few rough miles later, we set up camp for the night.
The next morning, we finished the Hole In the Rock return trip by adding a quick side trip to the Lake Canyon washout from the other side and then made the run to Hite Crossing for lunch and gas… only to find them closed.  So back to the airport for fuel we went.  Jerry’s low-fuel light came on just as we turned into the airport.  Talk about good timing!
The Hole In the Rock trail is one that should be on your "bucket list".  Before you attempt the Hole In the Rock though, make sure your rig is in top condition.  A breakdown on the Hole In the Rock trail could be more than a bummer. 
The Hole In the Rock trail in winter is about as remote as you can get in the contiguous 48.  The closest parts and help are nearly 90-miles (Blanding) from the Hole In the Rock road.  It's 160-miles to Moab.


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Always remember, when you come to a fork in the road… take it!
Happy Trails to you.
Copyright Happy Trails 4wd  2009 - 2013.  All rights reserved.