Kokopelli Trail and Rose Garden Hill

By Jerry Smith

March 3, 2017

Today Happy Trails and I took a trip up the Kokopelli Trail, over Rose Garden Hill, and out Onion Creek.

The Kokopelli Trail runs over 100-miles from Fruita, CO, to Moab, UT.

The weather was near perfect as we got a late start. The late start was due to the cold water coming from the hot water faucet. Cold showers suck!

Arriving at the Dewey Bridge turn off, we aired down. The Entrada Bluff Road, aka the Kokopelli Trail, is known for being rough on its best day. The road was still slightly damp and had been freshly bladed. Even with all that, the loose round rocks made for a slow and bumpy ride.

Somebody's kid started the brush near the bridge on fire and burned the entire area.

At the turn off to the lower Delores River Crossing, we took a side trip to check the river level. The water looked inviting so we dove in and crossed for some pictures.

The Delores River crossing.

Even though the water was deep, it barely made it to the top of the 35” tires. Several times at this crossing, water has been up to the fenders, which are several inches above the tires.

Returning to the Kokopelli Trail, we proceeded to the Top of the World turn off. Here the trail splits into a turkey foot intersection. The three toes take you either further up the Entrada Bluffs road, through Cottonwood Canyon on the Kokopelli Trail, or up to Top of the World.

The time of day told me that going up Top of the World would be a game changer. We were mapping some trails for TrailsOffRoad. https://www.trailsoffroad.com/

They are a web-based listing of trails with pictures and a brief write-up that gives people an easy way to find good Jeep trails in unfamiliar places.

The Kokopelli Trail was named as a bicycle trail but uses two-track roads in many places. This trail runs over one hundred miles from Fruita, CO, to Moab, UT. with a few missing pieces. Some parts are borderline extreme for Jeeps. Rose Garden Hill was once just a rough shelf road. Now, going DOWN can be a challenge. We would be doing that later. The Cottonwood Canyon ahead is another.

Cottonwood Canyon is a maze of canyons with steep walls reaching out of the dark canyon. Some of the road through Cottonwood is fairly easy, though if you have issues with heights, you might have some uncomfortable moments.

A nasty climb in Cottonwood Canyon on the Kokopelli Trail

Narrow shelf roads with plenty of rocks of varying sizes adorn the road. Cuts into the lower roadside from erosion make an already narrow road exciting. Some steep ascents and descents add to your discomfort. The upper end of one grade has some tall vertical steps to negotiate. There were many UTV tracks going up the hill, but none beyond the steps.

This is one of the ledges one must climb. The picture doesn't do it justice.

Even the 35” tires did some straining to jump up. Those steps are becoming double tough. Add the estimated 30-degree slope and you have some difficult obstacles.

The Kokopelli Trail in Cottonwood Canyon

Returning to the main road, we continued on. The GPS was becoming tired of adding waypoints at each intersection. We stopped and took pictures of the side road intersections for easy identification. Some people are not all that adept at map reading.

This trail is one with many sites. As you gain elevation, views of the “Delores Triangle” to the east begin showing the beauty of that area. The Granite Creek Canyon is easy to pick out. The deep scar from high on Pinon Mesa down to the deep Delores River gorge is unmistakable.

Granite Creek Canyon

Steamboat Mesa is another easy landmark to pick out. It’s massive size and high, flat top are recognizable from miles away. Even from over here on 7-Mile Mesa, you can pick it out with no trouble.

Steamboat Mesa

Having explored nearly every trail in the area, I find most of the recognizable features very easy to pick out. Studying a country after I’ve been in it is a habit. Knowing little things about the history, the terrain, the wildlife, and other silly things seem important.

The Delores River Canyon circling Steamboat Mesa

Passing the road out to the Delores River Overlook because of the time of day, we set course for Rose Garden Hill.

The road going to Rose Garden Hill is not for the squeamish. Plenty of off-camber places on steep descents over large rocky places will make even the most experienced driver nervous. The idea of having to return over some of them is something you don’t want to think about.

As you make the hairpin turn to the west along the northern rim of another Cottonwood Canyon, the views of the deep, vertical sided canyon become awesome. This canyon runs to the Delores River and is known for having Peregrine Falcons, eagles, and other bird species nesting along the cliffs.

Spire in Cottonwood Canyon

Along the way to Rose Garden, there is a mini version that fools some people into thinking they have conquered the infamous obstacle. Trust me, it’s just a warm-up for what is to come. That false sense of conquest is ripped from your being as you start the descent of one of Moab’s famous obstacles.

Years ago, Rose Garden Hill was a simple, steep shelf road with a few large rocks and one 20” vertical shelf to climb. Between Mother Nature’s natural erosion and all the tires that have further loosened the rocks and sand, the entire hill has become on long, treacherous piece of real estate.

Happy Trails on Rose Garden Hill

Now there are bathtub size rocks to climb over or around. Going around subjects you to some awkward positions. Going severely off-camber on an already steep hill climb raises blood pressure and strains the seat covers.

Rose Garden Hill

Then you come to the shelves. Vertical steps of about 24” added to an already steep grade make for an “automatic reject feature.” Then there is all the loose material on all surfaces. Traction? What’s that?

Happy Trails on Rose Garden Hill

From this direction, you are going down. I have seen three rigs turtled on the steps and some of the larger rocks going DOWN!! When you have to winch going DOWN, this is no obstacle for the faint of heart.

Par usual, Happy Trails made it down with little problem. Things constantly change on Rose Garden Hill. In places, I jumped out to study the next drop before committing to it.

With no spotter and being alone, you don’t do stupid things intentionally. Most of the time, I do not like being spotted, but you have to KNOW your limitations, your vehicle, and your ability before doing an obstacle with this difficulty. Aggressive caution is called for.

Tracks were old on Rose Garden Hill

Rose Garden Hill

The road to the Fisher Valley was long and rough. While at the Onion Creek Road intersection, a crew cab ford pickup coming up Onion Creek made the turn toward Rose Garden. We pulled up beside him and talked about his destination.

This was his first time in the area and he had no idea what he had ahead. After warning him of what was ahead and the damage he would incur, he elected to stay on the road to Polar Mesa where he would encounter a deep snow covered road to either Gateway, CO, or Moab. This time of year, the road will be closed and impassible.

So, next, we would head down Onion Creek. This canyon is extremely scenic. The road is generally easy going –- unless there is a flash flood.

Just one of the sites in Onion Creek

A couple years ago, one of our club members got caught in the middle of the 8-mile canyon when the creek did a sudden flood. They spent several hours waiting on some high ground for the water level to drop. By then, much of the road was down in the Colorado River, so the adventure continued.

If you look close, there is a climber on top and one hanging by a rope near the bottom.

Climbing the Spire

The other side of the spire.

They appeared to be camping on the top.

Five and six foot deep channels were now where the road once stood. Canyon country and the desert can be harsh in many ways. You learn, one way or the other, to pay attention to the weather. Rain or heat can cause you a bunch of grief if you don’t. Rock falls, downed trees, erosion, and other qualities can find you in a quandary about the reason you are there.

In Onion Creek canyon, the creek crosses the road 30-times. Just two years ago, there were 32 crossings, but the flood changed the course in some places. This gives you a little more perspective about how significant a flash flood in about 6-miles of road might be.

Today was a great day on the trail. No breakage, no dropping of the anchor, and we overcame all the obstacles unscathed. The air was clear, the dust was light, and the trail offered some good challenges and enjoyment.

Now, the last thing we need to remind you of. When you come to a fork in the road, TAKE IT!! Adventure is where you find it.