Saturday, March 4, 2017

Kokopelli Trail and Rose Garden Hill

By Jerry Smith

March 3, 2017

Today Happy Trails and I took a trip up the Kokopelli Trail, over Rose Garden Hill, and out Onion Creek.

The Kokopelli Trail runs over 100-miles from Fruita, CO, to Moab, UT.

The weather was near perfect as we got a late start. The late start was due to the cold water coming from the hot water faucet. Cold showers suck!

Arriving at the Dewey Bridge turn off, we aired down. The Entrada Bluff Road, aka the Kokopelli Trail, is known for being rough on its best day. The road was still slightly damp and had been freshly bladed. Even with all that, the loose round rocks made for a slow and bumpy ride.

Somebody's kid started the brush near the bridge on fire and burned the entire area.

At the turn off to the lower Delores River Crossing, we took a side trip to check the river level. The water looked inviting so we dove in and crossed for some pictures.

The Delores River crossing.

Even though the water was deep, it barely made it to the top of the 35” tires. Several times at this crossing, water has been up to the fenders, which are several inches above the tires.

Returning to the Kokopelli Trail, we proceeded to the Top of the World turn off. Here the trail splits into a turkey foot intersection. The three toes take you either further up the Entrada Bluffs road, through Cottonwood Canyon on the Kokopelli Trail, or up to Top of the World.

The time of day told me that going up Top of the World would be a game changer. We were mapping some trails for TrailsOffRoad. https://www.trailsoffroad.com/

They are a web-based listing of trails with pictures and a brief write-up that gives people an easy way to find good Jeep trails in unfamiliar places.

The Kokopelli Trail was named as a bicycle trail but uses two-track roads in many places. This trail runs over one hundred miles from Fruita, CO, to Moab, UT. with a few missing pieces. Some parts are borderline extreme for Jeeps. Rose Garden Hill was once just a rough shelf road. Now, going DOWN can be a challenge. We would be doing that later. The Cottonwood Canyon ahead is another.

Cottonwood Canyon is a maze of canyons with steep walls reaching out of the dark canyon. Some of the road through Cottonwood is fairly easy, though if you have issues with heights, you might have some uncomfortable moments.

A nasty climb in Cottonwood Canyon on the Kokopelli Trail

Narrow shelf roads with plenty of rocks of varying sizes adorn the road. Cuts into the lower roadside from erosion make an already narrow road exciting. Some steep ascents and descents add to your discomfort. The upper end of one grade has some tall vertical steps to negotiate. There were many UTV tracks going up the hill, but none beyond the steps.

This is one of the ledges one must climb. The picture doesn't do it justice.

Even the 35” tires did some straining to jump up. Those steps are becoming double tough. Add the estimated 30-degree slope and you have some difficult obstacles.

The Kokopelli Trail in Cottonwood Canyon

Returning to the main road, we continued on. The GPS was becoming tired of adding waypoints at each intersection. We stopped and took pictures of the side road intersections for easy identification. Some people are not all that adept at map reading.

This trail is one with many sites. As you gain elevation, views of the “Delores Triangle” to the east begin showing the beauty of that area. The Granite Creek Canyon is easy to pick out. The deep scar from high on Pinon Mesa down to the deep Delores River gorge is unmistakable.

Granite Creek Canyon

Steamboat Mesa is another easy landmark to pick out. It’s massive size and high, flat top are recognizable from miles away. Even from over here on 7-Mile Mesa, you can pick it out with no trouble.

Steamboat Mesa

Having explored nearly every trail in the area, I find most of the recognizable features very easy to pick out. Studying a country after I’ve been in it is a habit. Knowing little things about the history, the terrain, the wildlife, and other silly things seem important.

The Delores River Canyon circling Steamboat Mesa

Passing the road out to the Delores River Overlook because of the time of day, we set course for Rose Garden Hill.

The road going to Rose Garden Hill is not for the squeamish. Plenty of off-camber places on steep descents over large rocky places will make even the most experienced driver nervous. The idea of having to return over some of them is something you don’t want to think about.

As you make the hairpin turn to the west along the northern rim of another Cottonwood Canyon, the views of the deep, vertical sided canyon become awesome. This canyon runs to the Delores River and is known for having Peregrine Falcons, eagles, and other bird species nesting along the cliffs.

Spire in Cottonwood Canyon

Along the way to Rose Garden, there is a mini version that fools some people into thinking they have conquered the infamous obstacle. Trust me, it’s just a warm-up for what is to come. That false sense of conquest is ripped from your being as you start the descent of one of Moab’s famous obstacles.

Years ago, Rose Garden Hill was a simple, steep shelf road with a few large rocks and one 20” vertical shelf to climb. Between Mother Nature’s natural erosion and all the tires that have further loosened the rocks and sand, the entire hill has become on long, treacherous piece of real estate.

Happy Trails on Rose Garden Hill

Now there are bathtub size rocks to climb over or around. Going around subjects you to some awkward positions. Going severely off-camber on an already steep hill climb raises blood pressure and strains the seat covers.

Rose Garden Hill

Then you come to the shelves. Vertical steps of about 24” added to an already steep grade make for an “automatic reject feature.” Then there is all the loose material on all surfaces. Traction? What’s that?

Happy Trails on Rose Garden Hill

From this direction, you are going down. I have seen three rigs turtled on the steps and some of the larger rocks going DOWN!! When you have to winch going DOWN, this is no obstacle for the faint of heart.

Par usual, Happy Trails made it down with little problem. Things constantly change on Rose Garden Hill. In places, I jumped out to study the next drop before committing to it.

With no spotter and being alone, you don’t do stupid things intentionally. Most of the time, I do not like being spotted, but you have to KNOW your limitations, your vehicle, and your ability before doing an obstacle with this difficulty. Aggressive caution is called for.

Tracks were old on Rose Garden Hill

Rose Garden Hill

The road to the Fisher Valley was long and rough. While at the Onion Creek Road intersection, a crew cab ford pickup coming up Onion Creek made the turn toward Rose Garden. We pulled up beside him and talked about his destination.

This was his first time in the area and he had no idea what he had ahead. After warning him of what was ahead and the damage he would incur, he elected to stay on the road to Polar Mesa where he would encounter a deep snow covered road to either Gateway, CO, or Moab. This time of year, the road will be closed and impassible.

So, next, we would head down Onion Creek. This canyon is extremely scenic. The road is generally easy going –- unless there is a flash flood.

Just one of the sites in Onion Creek

A couple years ago, one of our club members got caught in the middle of the 8-mile canyon when the creek did a sudden flood. They spent several hours waiting on some high ground for the water level to drop. By then, much of the road was down in the Colorado River, so the adventure continued.

If you look close, there is a climber on top and one hanging by a rope near the bottom.

Climbing the Spire

The other side of the spire.

They appeared to be camping on the top.

Five and six foot deep channels were now where the road once stood. Canyon country and the desert can be harsh in many ways. You learn, one way or the other, to pay attention to the weather. Rain or heat can cause you a bunch of grief if you don’t. Rock falls, downed trees, erosion, and other qualities can find you in a quandary about the reason you are there.

In Onion Creek canyon, the creek crosses the road 30-times. Just two years ago, there were 32 crossings, but the flood changed the course in some places. This gives you a little more perspective about how significant a flash flood in about 6-miles of road might be.

Today was a great day on the trail. No breakage, no dropping of the anchor, and we overcame all the obstacles unscathed. The air was clear, the dust was light, and the trail offered some good challenges and enjoyment.

Now, the last thing we need to remind you of. When you come to a fork in the road, TAKE IT!! Adventure is where you find it.

Sighting in on the moon.

The lazy camel.

Happy Trails on Rose Garden Hill

Old Dewey Bridge

Saturday, November 14, 2015

The Calamity Mesa Loop Trail

Calamity Mesa Loop

By Jerry Smith

5/17/2009

The 4-wheeling God was working overtime May 16 & 17, 2009. Members of the Grand Mesa Jeep Club of Grand Junction and Western Slope 4-Wheelers of Montrose joined forces for two days of “best of this world” wheeling on Calamity Mesa near Gateway, CO.

The Beginning and End of the Calamity Mesa Loop trail.

Gateway is in a remote corner of western Colorado. Approximately 50 miles south and west of Grand Junction, Gateway is located at the confluence of West Creek and the Delores River. Beautiful Colorado canyon country at its peak.

Members in nine rigs on Saturday and six on Sunday were put to work moving literally tons of rock either into washes or off of the road to make safer headway for the next guy. The work to re-open roads long closed by obstacles that had kept the wheeling public off these roads for what we believe to be at least 25 years was made much easier by the number of volunteers.

Prior work to make these roads just barely “passable” was done last fall by Mike Click, Harold Delfelder, and Jerry Smith. In fact, that trip led to an unplanned “overnight” in the woods for the three when darkness made further travel on this class 7+ trail very dangerous.

"Overnight Wash" being widened for passage.

The trail around lower Calamity Mesa at that time was very dangerous in one place. A washout had left only a couple feet of the road width (barely enough for a motorcycle) with a vertical drop on the low-side of nearly 5-feet. With a lot of digging and rock placement, the three made it through only to become trapped between this obstacle and more rock falls ahead on the trail. With the work done this weekend the washout is now safely (just barely) passable.

"Twisted Drop" will wind you up.

Most of the heavy work done took place between the Calamity Loop trail and the Blue Creek ranch. Several large rocks were moved by brute human power and many other huge rocks and boulders were moved by a winch. Some of the rocks were so large that Roy’s Jeep had to be tied to Chuck’s Cherokee to keep it in place. The roads now are passable though only by the severely adventuresome.

The Blue Creek Gorge lunch overlook.

These trails were originally found in a search for trails to be used for the Gateway 4X4 Rendezvous in June ’09. Mike Click and Jerry Smith spent nearly a week scouting the mid-level Uncompahgre Plateau near Gateway last summer for potential trails for this event. These roads were found to have many of the traits most fun-loving 4-wheelers search for but seldom find. To find an unused primitive 20-mile loop is exactly rare.

"The Squeeze" is why NO FULL-SIZE VEHICLES.

On the Calamity Mesa Loop trail, there are still several places just wide enough for passage (deep washes on one side and steep side-hills on the other). Other places have tight squeezes between rocks and trees, rocks to weave through or over, off-camber climbs, deep washes both across and down the middle, and some great rocky hill climbs to ascend and descend. A true Jeeping Mecca! There are several rocks along the trail that will suffer a long time from the undercarriage abuses they absorbed this weekend.

Gyration Wash is ripe with hazards.

Another draw to this trip was the passage through the Blue Creek ranch, which is normally closed to the public. This is one of two ways to access the bottom of these two trails and will be used for the Gateway 4X4 Rendezvous. We will be showing some of Colorado’s “best” to the entrants of this event.

Del Albright's TJ got a workout.

Many thanks to the hardy individuals who made this trip one to remember. Please remember to continue reaping your reward by making more trips on these wonderful trails in the future. You definitely earned your grins.

"Drop-off Corner" comes with sound effects... "THUD"

Last, be sure to remember when you’re out in the Great American BackCountry that when you come to a fork in the road… take it! You never know what you might find.

NOTE: The Gateway 4X4 Rendezvous never happened. The sponsors decided at the last minute that the area was too remote and had no camping areas in close proximity to accommodate the entrants expected.

Sunday, May 11, 2014

Sheep Creek / Granite Creek Pre-run

Sheep Creek / Granite Creek

Pre-run

May 10, 2014

By Jerry Smith

Providing the most enjoyable 3-days of Jeeping our “Rock Junction” guests can possibly have is the ultimate goal of the Grand Mesa Jeep Club. That does not include working to make a trail passable or leaving their paint on trees or brush that has overgrown the trails.

Steep, narrow, and rocky is the Granite Cr. shelf road

Rock Junction is an annual 3-day event held in conjunction with the Rocky Mountain Off Road Expo. The Expo is the first Saturday of June in Grand Junction, Colorado. Rock Junction is the three-days prior to that Saturday.

Those 3-days are spent out on some of western Colorado's and eastern Utah's premier Jeep trails. Those Jeep trails range in difficulty from mild and scenic to extreme and scenic. Your choice.

At the end of each day on the trail, you are treated to a BBQ dinner where we mingle with others who have some "tall tales" you're going to want to hear. Between the trails and the BBQs, this event brings rigs from all over the US and Canada to Grand Junction.

With this in mind, 7 rigs began early Saturday morning for a “working” trip up the Sheep Creek and Granite Creek trails. Granite Creek had been run earlier this year with several hours of brush trimming reopening miles of overgrown trail. (see this link for that story: http://happytrails4wdblog.blogspot.com/2014/04/the-granite-creek-trail.html

The Sheep Creek trail had not been run, so we did not know what to expect.

Historically, this trail can have “issues” in the early spring after the winter ravages and spring runoff.

A less sharp, but still steep hairpin on Sheep Creek

On the bottom of Sheep Creek, deep wash crossings can have high vertical banks left after high water has abated. Further up the steep, narrow shelf road, rock falls are common and erosion of the road surface can change the “personality” of the trip.

After airing down at the Hwy 141/ 4.2 Road intersection, we ran the 6-miles down along the Delores River to the Sheep Creek trailhead. From here, the trail goes from a fast county road to a bouncy, rough, and slow progress type of trail. Once you climb up on the lower mesa, the trail becomes one of loose round river rock that keeps speed and comfort to a minimum.

Dropping down into the washes that empty the runoff from the higher ground, we discovered that a dozer had been hired to reopen the road not long before this exploration. As usual, the dozer operator went at the trail as if to create a “passing lane” up an otherwise narrow, challenging Jeep road.

Pictures don't relate the roughness of Sheep Creek

While we applaud the BLM for keeping the trail open, we would argue that leaving the trail more “primitive” would be preferable. Repair of impassable or dangerous obstacles is a good thing. Destroying a perfectly good primitive Jeep Road is not!

The good thing is that Mother Nature has a way of “curing” what the BLM and a dozer have done. Historically speaking, one or two years from now, Sheep Creek will return to a very fun, challenging trail.
One year, the first trip up Sheep Creek nearly came to an abrupt end on one hairpin point. The heavy runoff had cut a deep gouge down the side of the mountain and then turned down the road for about 50-yards before diving off the lower side. The deep V-notch cut had left just enough of the narrow shelf road for a Jeep to pass if the driver wasn't squeamish about dropping the passenger side tires into the V-notch.
A wrong decision at this point could result in a long roll to the bottom of the canyon. As it turned out, the two of us made it through without any problems. A call to the BLM ended with the trail temporarily closed for several months.
Other times, rockfalls from the high cliff above the road can drop huge boulders onto the road. More than once, some inventive winching has been required to remove the debris. Once, dynamite was used to "shrink" the rock into a portable size. We like to think that Colorado Jeep trails have their own special needs.

Climbing the steep Sheep Creek trail

At the top of the ridge, the Pinon pine and Juniper trees have been encroaching on the trail for years. We stopped several times to do some widening of the trail to make it less abrasive on the vehicle sides.

The Delores River Valley from upper Sheep Creek

After a very light rain-shortened lunch stop, we continued down into Lost Horse Canyon. The trail here becomes fairly mild for quite some distance.

As you approach where Granite Creek intersects, the trail begins to get rough and the brush along the sides gets downright ugly. Even after our first “work trip”, the brush had begun leafing out and reaching for your paint job.

We spent a lot of time further trimming some of the worst areas to make them more “user-friendly”.

Mary and Chuck performing trail maintenance

The Granite Creek canyon is a beautiful and grand place. High, steep, canyon walls are topped by nearly vertical cliffs with jagged looking, weather-beaten crags. The scenic values alone are worth the trip. Along the way, you transition from Colorado to Utah, though you better watch closely on the GPS to notice it.

Once you reach the old “homestead”, most of the scenic qualities pale while ascending the very narrow shelf road up and out of the canyon. The steep, rocky roadway keeps your attention away from the “views” for the most part.

Granite Creek

Your concentration is more limited to; “don’t go over the side” than; “that sure looks pretty”. Depending on what you drive, there are places where your outside tire may protrude slightly over the edge of a very steep, very deep canyon. You may use the word “unnerving” if it’s in your vocabulary.

We left Granite Creek and Sheep Creek in much better condition than we found them… ready for “Rock Junction” on June 4, 5, and 6, 2014.

You will have some Off-Camber moments in Granite Creek

Come enjoy 3-days of Jeeping some of western Colorado and eastern Utah’s premier trails. We have trip leaders who will take you on trips from the mild to the extremely wild… your choice. Then enjoy a hosted evening BBQ each day to reminisce your journeys with others who have just done theirs.

Happy Trails to you.

And remember, when you come to a fork in the road, "Take It!"