Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Western Colorado Trails


Crossing the Delores River and Granite Creek

By Jerry Smith

November 3, 2013

Day 2 of 2

Sunday morning began fairly early.  Well before 08:00 we (Happy Trails & I) were parked across from the Glade Park store awaiting the possible arrival of Marty.  When he hadn’t arrived by 08:00, we did the boogie for the lower Delores River crossing.

To be there at 09:30 to meet the club members coming from Moab would be close.  I dearly wanted to be there to photograph the “Jeep crossing”.  The road to the crossing is about 35 miles from the Utah/Colorado border at the end of DS Road.

DS Road was very quiet as we made headway toward the Colorado/Utah border.  Approaching the nine-mile marker it becomes quite narrow with 5-6 foot sage growing right off the paved road.

With one step a mule deer doe appeared not more than 5-feet ahead of my passenger side front fender.  Not even time to hit the brakes.  Long before we were stopped, the doe could be seen skidding on her side before the Jeep.

I steered around her and soon came to a stop.  In the mirrors, I watched her very stiffly limp across the road and just as she stepped into the brush a yearling doe followed.  My view wasn’t great, but I don’t think anything was broken but her pride, but she will be terribly sore for some time.

I backed up to see how she was doing, but never saw her again. There were no tracks or a blood trail on the hard ground.

Later at the Delores River crossing, I inspected for damage.  Only a very small crease in the fender could be found… very lucky considering the impact.  The Fab Fours bumper had just paid for itself.


Four River Otters doing what Otters do.

We pulled into the river a little just to gauge the depth and thought the water to be quite safe to cross.  Knowing (hoping) that several others were on their way, I backed out leaving just the front tires in the water and began the wait.  Crossing alone was more risk than was necessary for now.

After about 10-minutes, out of the corner of my eye, something dark surfaced in the riffle to the right for just a microsecond.  My first thought was “catfish”, but then a “V” in the water became two as they proceeded upstream.


These guys were a riot to observe.

Imagine my surprise when one of those “Vs” suddenly produced the head of a river otter.  Then the other “V” broke the surface.  Retrieving a camera from my bag didn’t take but a moment.  This was something I did not want to miss.

Even with a 400mm lens, these River Otters were making the camera "reach".

After taking a few shots of the two swimming, they were getting too far off for the mounted lens to produce a very good picture.  So, it was off with the small and on with the longer-range lens.

Luckily, the otters, which now had become a foursome, had found a place to rest and do what otters do.  Shooting through a close bush proved to be a potential problem, but we managed to rest the long lens on the window to steady it and got some fairly good shots.

The joy of watching their show was a perfect reward for early rising on a Sunday morning.  I've always been a huge fan of wildlife watching, so I was in a little corner of heaven this morning.

Not long afterward, I heard chatter over the CB “skip” that had been a nuisance all morning.  I recognized the voices of Dave and Cody so knew they would be arriving soon.


The tires nearly drowned on the first crossing.

It wasn’t long that the camera was clicking off pictures as the Grand Mesa Jeep Club made their way across the lower Delores River crossing.

Some first timers had that nervous smile as they baptized their rigs following the path the others had taken.  Coming up and out the other side the nerves let that smile grow into the proverbial “Cheshire Cat” as pure enjoyment took over.  Most Jeepers will never have the opportunity of doing a river crossing.  It can be a very special occasion, but it can also be a prime source of frayed nerves until it's over.

Today, the river was a little on the high side.  This lower ford has more current than another just a couple miles up river.  At times of really low flow, the Colorado River (about a half-mile downstream) will back up clear to this point.  In times of high flow, a crossing is not advised.


Small variations of the line taken meant depth changes.

I’ve seen that reaction many times at this crossing and back during my life in Montana.  The big difference is that you can see through the Montana water… not so in most of the Colorado red water streams.

One quick safety note;  when crossing deep waters, it's a good idea to roll down your windows for the "just in case".  Removing your seat belt is also a great idea.  Making a fast emergency exit is much easier if you follow these rules.


Mary's line started in the deep pool.

Cody pushed water ahead like a barge.

After some time, we all fired up and headed for Granite Creek where we would have lunch and some hiking (for the hearty). 


Lunch for some had that "aged taste".  Actually, we found these at a nearby fire pit and couldn't resist the fun of "reusing" them.

The section of road they hiked is the fairly steep, narrow shelf road that drops into the bottom of Granite Creek Canyon.  From there it turns upstream where it is grossly overgrown with thick brush.  In places, even the overhead is overgrown.

A section of the shelf road is reported to have sloughed off and needs some TLC as well.  It has been on my “radar” to do the required maintenance and reopen it for some time, but we haven’t made the time yet.

For those of you who have never worked on a project like the re-opening of a road or trail, I truly feel sorry for you.  The pride of bringing a trail back to “life” will make your head swell. 

It may not really equal the experience, but it is like when your children are born.  You just can’t help but love them thereafter.

Later, when you see the smiles of others as they experience “your trail”, you’ll feel that again and again.  It’s a special thing that you’ll have to do to understand, but trust me, you will be glad you did it.

After the weary hikers slowed their heart rates, we took the road North and East into Ryan Creek where the road heads North and West to Red Gap.


Heading for Red Gap

Red Gap is a high overlooking point with a tremendous view of the valley to the West.  (It took a little research to find "Red Gaps" name.  I was asked on the trail and didn't know). 

From there we dipped down through Renegade Creek and then up and over to Spring Creek where the road jumps up on the Colorado/Utah border and brings you back to DS road where most aired up and headed home.  Three elected to take the short drive up 9- 8/10s Road to Miracle Rock and “The Pot Holes”.  (in case you are wondering, western Colorado has some strange addresses and road names)

Though not a particularly challenging day of Jeeping, this proved that mild trails can definitely make for an excellent experience if you love the Great American BackCountry as most of us do.

Our many thanks to Dave and Cody for leading two great days of Jeeping and providing us the opportunity to spend the time together.

Don’t ever forget —when you come to a fork in the road… take it!

Happy Trails.

Copyright Happy Trails 4wd 2013 - 2017.  All rights reserved.


Cosmo (the dog) smiled for this shot.

Fall colors helped "flavor" some pictures.

We have safely crossed here when the water was up to the hood.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Moab Trails



Four Arches & Bull Canyons + Gemini Bridges

By Jerry Smith

November 2, 2013

Day 1 of 2

At the announced time of 08:00, the Fruita McDonalds parking lot emptied as the Grand Mesa Jeep Club headed west on I-70.  The right lane of I-70 looked like a long line of hungry Jeep ants marching to a picnic.

A bit over an hour later we all turned onto Hwy 313 headed for the Little Canyon turn-off.  There we aired down and began a great day exploring eastern Utah’s splendor.

A few miles down the trail brought us to one of those obstacles where many 4-wheelers miss a lot of adventure… a fork in the road.  This one was marked with signs adding to the dilemma.  We were inclined to take the Four Arches Canyon direction as planned, though.

Grand Mesa Jeep Club members in Four Arches Cyn.

A few of us had already explored this short but interesting trail.  The others were about to find this moderate-rated trail to be slight in difficulty, but have some of the Moab area qualities like beauty and charm that draw so many of the 4-wheeling community here every year.

Passing the ranch near where the canyon mouth begins narrowing, we couldn’t help but wonder how many of the 4-arches we would encounter.  In previous trips, some had not found all four.  A couple of them are not the typical arches one sees in this land so rich with the strange, natural structures.

One of the arches in Four Arches Canyon

Cody, our leader, was able to point out our quarry as we traveled the snaky trail that follows a dry stream bed under a power line headed up and over the high cliff at the end of the box canyon.

Arches, no matter their shape, size, or location are always great for a “Kodak Moment”, and these were no different.  Only yards off of the trail, they presented their best sides for our cameras.

Another of the arches in Four Arches Canyon 

Cody obviously had a schedule to keep as we barely had time to snap pictures from our vehicle seats as we briskly drove by.  His mental scheduling proved to be right-on as the day progressed.

Another of the arches in Four Arches Canyon 

Returning to the “fork in the road”, we continued on to the short trail to Gemini Bridges.

There we walked down the “300-yard” rock-lined path from the parking lot to the top of Gemini Bridges.

As you approach the “bridges”, your eyes generally first encounter the gaping opening of the wide, red, 160-foot deep canyon beyond the actual reason for your interest in coming here.

Your first view of massive Gemini Bridges

The next thing will be the large hole or pit in the sandstone with the “bridges” lurking between the pit and the canyon beyond.  You’ll likely be walking up to the edge of the pit to see the massive hole below the bridges.

Don’t look down too much.  You’re standing on a deeply undercut ledge where only air and the rock you’re standing on are between you and the bottom of the pit below.  Go around to the bridges and look back to confirm this and feel your stomach tighten.  (it’s good exercise)

You were likely standing on that undercut ledge moments ago.

As you approach the “bridges”, you will see why they are called “bridges”.  There is a 6-foot wide slot opening between the bridges offering a new view through the opening below.

The view between the "Bridges"

If you go off the south end of the bridges (to the right) and walk around to the point above, you get a great view of the canyon beyond and up to the bridges.  Look for a plaque embedded in the rock.

The "arm" off Bull Canyon

This is a short side canyon off of the main Bull Canyon below where you may walk about 3/8 of a mile from the Bull Canyon road to the base of Gemini Bridges.  It’s a walk that is well worth the effort.


As you stand in the middle of the outside bridge, look down and imagine how 19-year old Beau James Daley must have felt as his Jeep drove over that edge on Oct. 9, 1999.  That is why you’ll find the plaque dedicated to his life attached to the rock mentioned above.

Others have lost their lives as a result of falling here.  Jumping the gap between the bridges seems too alluring for some people.  Some have even made it.  Others, well… they’re not jumping anymore.  Please, watch your children and friends closely.


Even the younger GMJC Jeepers enjoyed Gemini Bridges

After our tour of the top of Gemini Bridges, we all met in the parking lot and had a lunch break.  What is it that food always tastes better under open skies with an excellent view and great friends?

Food, Friends, Fine Views.  Get that in New York City!

After lunch, we continued down toward the Bull Canyon turn-off.  Taking it soon presents another “fork” dilemma.  We stayed left.

This road takes you to another fork.  Going left takes you to a spectacular overlook of Day Canyon and a steep blow sand hill that presented some sporting fun and good photographs as sand was flying everywhere. 

As hard as we cheered, this is as far as Roger got on the hill climb.

After the fun in the sand, we returned to the fork and followed it down into the Dry Fork of Bull Canyon.  This spur road took us down a dry wash for the most part. 

Mary and her LS3 powered JKU made it look easy.

Some of the wash had some fun obstacles.  The majority of our group circumnavigated most of the more difficult obstacles while the more adventurous of us took on the challenges.  We all followed Cody until the road begins to turn rather nasty and we returned to the main Bull Canyon trail.

Plenty of sand was displaced

This road presents the opportunity to park and hike to the bottom of Gemini Bridges. 

Codie moved a pile of sand but made it on her first try.

Initially, we passed by the trailhead and continued on to where the road becomes rather difficult.  Being toward the rear of the line afforded me the knowledge that the main group was at or near the end of where they were about to turn around.  CB radios are great.

Finding myself at another fork in the road and seeing a road across the canyon, I ventured off on my own.  This road was mostly primitive and largely unused.  Many fallen rocks littered the road, but that is no hill for a climber.  Finally, we crossed the wash bottom and ascended to a strange mine adit.

This could be "Very Delicate Arch", but we don't know.

This mine was about 10-feet wide, but only 24 to 30” high.  It did go deep into the hillside but was not “inviting” looking at all.

A mine for very short people.

Turning around, I looked up the other side of the canyon to see I was being scrutinized by several of the group high up on the rocky hillside.  I wasn’t sure if my side-trip was being envied or damned, so we (Happy Trails & I) began looking for a way back.

The upper road proved to be a bust right away.  Past a small rock fall, a short walk showed where the road had sloughed off completely.  From there I spied another road below that looked promising.

Backing down to the lower road must have looked a little bad because the CB squawked that I was being observed.

Occasionally the La Sals showed their snowy tops.

That lower road began innocently but soon became more and more narrow as a deep wash on the upper side cut the road surface.

Just a few yards before dropping into the dry wash bottom, the road was only about 3-feet wide and had a severe crown.  This was almost a deal breaker and we seriously considered backing out the nearly quarter-mile behind us.

No guts, no glory!  We ventured on and “tip-toed” down the “road” into the wash and were soon on the road back to the fork where I met the others coming back.

At the trailhead to Gemini Bridges, we all hiked back into the already shadowed canyon.  Most of this hike is in a loose sandy dry wash and your legs get a good workout.  It’s about 3/8s of a mile to the end, but well worth it if you are able.

After several picture taking ops, we about-faced and marched out to the waiting vehicles.

Not long after, we dropped down to where the end of the Golden Spike and other trails join the road near Gooney Bird Rock.  There we picked up some traffic from Golden Spike (we assumed) who joined up with no invitation. 

As the shadows grew, we exited Bull Canyon

Our descent down to the trailhead south of the Hwy 191/ 313 junction was a bit dusty but concluded a wonderful day on the trails of Moab.

Most of the group had elected to spend the night in Moab hotels and have dinner together.  I was suffering the ravages of an oncoming cold and elected to head back to Grand Junction to see if tomorrow's trip that would be crossing the Delores River was going to be something I could suffer through.

One last thought—when you come to a fork in the road… take it!

Happy Trails.

Copyright Happy Trails 4wd 2013-2017.  All rights reserved. 


Gemini Arches from below

We welcome the kids on our trips.  This is how they learn to appreciate the Great American BackCountry the right way.

The rock in the foreground is interesting, but the shadow to the right is where the real arch or window was.

Arch or window?  Whatever it is, it was naturally awesome.

More sand in the air.

A little different view of this arch.

Cody left some "rooster tails" but made it easily.

Dave left little room for doubt he would make it over.


Friday, November 1, 2013

Truck or Treat and 16 Road to 21 Road




Truck or Treat and 16 Road to 21 Road

By Jerry Smith

October 26, 2013

No, you read it right.  “Truck or Treat” is an annual event put on in Fruita, CO where trucks, cranes, emergency vehicles, and tractors are the featured items that families (primarily the kids) come to see and “experience”.

No fun could be found in "Driving a Jeep"

What kid wouldn’t want to climb into the driver seat and pull the cord on an air horn in a class 8 truck? 

"Tooting" an air horn

Or they can go into the back of an ambulance, sit in the backseat of a police car, play in a cattle hauler trailer -- (no Bull Shtuff) or see one of the airport fire trucks up close.

Two "Desperadoes" 

Truck cranes with their booms up, a Grand Valley Power “bucket truck” showing the heights they may go to, and City of Fruita trucks were all on display.  Even school busses could be gone through.

"Little Farmers" 

Add some Halloween candy and how can you go wrong if you are young?

Well, this year the Grand Mesa Jeep Club, Colorado’s 2013 “Jeep Club of the Year”, took over nearly one city block displaying Jeeps and buggies and offering the kids candy as well.  It was an awesome sight.

The Grand Mesa Jeep Club at "Truck or Treat"

Kids, candy, and 4-wheelers 

16 Road to Upper 21 Road

With all the excitement of the Truck or Treat, one would think that would conclude the Saturday festivities… but that would be wrong. The 2013 Colorado “Club of the Year” hates to waste a good opportunity to go into the great American BackCountry.

A short trip into the Bookcliffs north of Grand Junction had been planned.

The Bookcliffs are a land of strange looking desert mountains topped with cliffs that resemble a shelf of books from a distance.  Nearly 200-miles long, the Bookcliffs begin in the northern De Beque Canyon and run through the Grand Valley following the I-70 corridor west to Green River, Utah where they turn north to Price, Utah.

Several dark canyons cut through the face of the Bookcliffs, some with large “bowl” watersheds hidden from view.  These “bowls” are homes to several species of wildlife including; mountain lions, bears, bobcats, coyotes, mule deer, pronghorn antelope, wild horses, bighorn sheep, and bison.

Three of "Red Jeeps" in Coal Gulch

Mainly due to the existence of great quantities of fossil fuels like coal and natural gas, many roads enter into these canyons and up on the ridges providing great exploration of the area in a Jeep or other 4x4.

Taking 16 Road north will eventually bring you into the Big Salt Wash as it exits the BookCliffs.  Further up the wash the road forks, and as you who are familiar with this writers’ practices, “when you come to a fork in the road, Take It!

“Right turn Clyde.”  

Soon we were skirting the end of the ridge that is the front of the BookCliffs and entered Coal Gulch that is directly behind this ridge. 

About halfway along the canyon road, Aaron’s YJ developed fuel delivery problems.  As tail gunner, I stopped to see if there was anything we could do to get them up and running. 

After a bit, he got it to run just well enough to turn around and head for town.  We would later hear that they were still running, though weakly, as Zane and Dale passed them on their way to catch-up to the group.

The road winds along the bottom of the gulch for miles before offering another fork in the road.

Technically, this fork is the beginning of a loop that starts and ends here, but we took the steeper road up onto Ross Ridge.  Several gas wells and their facilities dot the area with pads and short spur roads to each of them.

Sometimes we shift into "2-foot drive"

Following one such road, we came near the southern end of Ross Ridge overlooking Hunter Canyon… better known as 21 Road to our group.

21 Road is a nationally known “extreme trail” that draws people from all over the country to Grand Junction to try their buggies and driving skills. 

21 Road has a reputation for having flash floods that literally alter the trail from time to time.  This potentially makes it an unknown and different challenge every time you run it.  Nearly from the mouth of Hunter Canyon you are presented with one obstacle after another that will challenge you and your rig.

21 Road is known for many “rescue runs” to either bring needed parts to do trail repairs or for bringing a broken rig out by strap(s). 

People try to do this trail in stock or near stock Jeep Rubicons.  Many make the trip in and back out with big smiles and great pride… until they find bent axles, twisted frames, and “rock rash” were the ultimate outcomes.  Sometimes, the “automatic reject feature” of a trail is slow to materialize.

Three of these Rubicons that we know of were replaced not long after their experience on 21 Road.  The cost of repairing them was much too high to justify.

Most of our group hiked up to the overlook on the point of Ross Ridge where you look out over the Grand Valley.  Unfortunately, the air quality was rather poor spoiling the view.

Returning from a hike on Ross Ridge 

After turning around 14-rigs, we followed the road that drops you down into the upper end of Hunter Canyon up stream of the most challenging extreme obstacles. 

The steep road presents very sharp hairpin turns that were fairly challenging and fun.  Two of the hairpins were tight enough that even CJ7s had to back-up for a second attempt to make the turn.  Many fear turns like these while others approach them as just another “bump in the road”.

Sharp "Hair-pin" turns have you meeting those ahead of you. 

Not far from reaching the canyon bottom we found a long, wide, and flat spot that made for a good “Kodak Moment”.  Even with an extreme wide-angle lens, we had too many rigs parked side-by-side to get all in the one shot and not run the far end into oblivion. 

The Grand Mesa Jeep Club in Hunter Canyon (21 Road) 

From this parking area, most of the group walked to the overlook of the extreme obstacles down stream.  This view is quite awesome with no buggies in sight.  With one or more buggies in these boulders, it is hard to understand how they do what they do.

GMJC members looking at the upper extreme obstacles of 21 Road

Along the way back to the parking area, some were walking up the wash bottom when we encountered lion tracks.  These appeared to be from a medium size cat and became the discussion point for a while.

Sighting bear tracks in this canyon is fairly common.  Most of the Hunter Canyon area is quite steep and animals will use the road in the bottom as they move through.

Exiting the backcountry, it was decided that many of us would meet at “Munchies” in Fruita for dinner. 

Picturesque and steep canyon walls of Hunter Canyon

Not long thereafter, several of us were enjoying some good food and even better camaraderie.  It’s no wonder that the Grand Mesa Jeep Club is also the Colorado 2013 “Club of the Year”.

This turned into a really good day of Jeeping and showing community support.

And of course one last thought to ponder;  “When you come to a fork in the road… Take it!!

Happy Trails.


Copyright Happy Trails 2013.  All rights reserved.